Thanks

I appreciate the help in learning about the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and preparing for the trip from Tim Stone, the PCT Manager with the Forest Service, and from various folks at the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA), including Mike Dawson, Julianna Vondergeest and Beau Baker. Thanks also to the PCTA for use of some of the photos in the Overview on this website.

I was also pleased to be able to present slide shows at various REI stores in the San Francisco Bay area this winter about the PCT and opportunities for volunteer trail maintenance. Thanks to Polly Bolling at REI for arranging them and to Paul Cardinet for teaming up with me.

Let me also thank two long-time friends and hiking companions for their inspiration and encouragement: Bill Goodman and George Owen.

Finally, I am indebted to my talented cousin, Charles Dvorak, for advising and assisting me in setting up this website, known fondly as a "blog." On the PCT I will be passing close to one of his favorite haunts -- Joshua Tree National Park. You are welcome to direct comments or suggestions about the format of this blog to Charles at cdvorak@optonline.net.

Protection and Use of the PCT

As I prepare for the start of my thru-hike on April 24th at the Mexican border, I pause to appreciate the decades of hard work by conservationists, government officials and others that have made possible the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The challenge to keep the trail accessible and to protect its natural setting continues to this day. This entry sets out some of the key issues for the PCT in 2005. As I will be hiking the PCT only in CA this year, some of the topics cover only CA and not OR and WA. Click on any of the links if you'd like to learn more or help out.

TRAIL MAINTENANCE. Volunteers are always needed to help maintain the trail. With tight budgets for government agencies these days, it is up to us in the hiking community to pitch in and contribute our time and energy to keep the PCT open. The lead group that coordinates this is the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA.) In 2004, thanks to the PCTA, more than 30,000 hours of trail maintenance were devoted to critical projects, from routine clearing of the trail, to bridge and trailway construction to trail access through areas damaged by fire and flood.

In the summer of 2004 I spent a week as a volunteer on the Shasta-Trinity National Forest in the Castle Crags Wilderness in northern CA. Our crew opened up many miles of a popular section of the PCT through heavy brush. The PCTA provided us -- at no charge - a scenic campsite, delicious meals and trained supervision. It was a fun time and made me feel good about giving back to the trail community.

Check out the list of projects on the PCTA website (www.pcta.org) and consider volunteering.

WILDERNESS PRESERVATION As noted in the last entry, trail advocate Clinton Clarke envisioned the PCT as a "continuous wilderness trail" from Mexico to Canada. We are fortunate that indeed Congress has designated many areas crossed by the PCT as wilderness, permanently protected from roads, logging and other development. At present, the PCT passes through 47 separate federal wildernesses, totalling 1,010 miles, out of its entire 2,650 miles. For maps and descriptions of all federal wildernesses see www.wilderness.net. (In CA there are also a few wildernesses in state parks, like the Anza-Borrego Desert, that contain the PCT.)

To continue securing the vision of a wilderness trail, conservationists have identified significant new areas along the trail, like Meiss Meadows and Castle Peak near Lake Tahoe, and additions to existing areas, such as an expansion to the Hoover Wilderness with twelve scenic miles of the PCT north of Yosemite NP.

Following years of local consensus-building Senators Boxer and Feinstein have sponsored in the past the California Wild Heritage Act, which would designate many treasured wildernesses and wild and scenic rivers. This bill includes fourteen areas and two rivers that the PCT crosses. In addition the bill also covers twelve areas and five rivers and creeks that are less than one-and-a-half miles from the PCT, protecting important buffers and offering attractive side trips.

The CA Senators expect to introduce the bill again. The PCTA has also endorsed the measure, noting that it would protect the historic PCT and all that people enjoy about it. Please write Senators Boxer and Feinstein to thank them for their support and also urge local members, such as Representative Buck McKeon, to back it as well.

For more information about this bill, go to www.californiawild.org. For a map of the entire proposal and descriptions of the areas visit www.calwild.or/campaigns.

TRAIL ACQUISITION. Many people are surprised to learn that 300 miles of the PCT go across private land. This trailway often has limited protection, with narrow easements that are not permanent. To obtain a secure route the federal government is seeking to purchase key tracts of private land. These purchases are paid for out of the Land and Water Conservation Fund, which does require that Congress directly appropriate the money.

A crucial project at this time is the Sky King Cole property containing the PCT in the Siskiyou Mountains in OR. Groups like the PCTA are urging Congress to appropriate $1.5 million to purchase these 1300 acres in this vital link between the Klamath and the Cascade mountains. Contact the OR Congressional delegation to ask for their support.

There will be an ongoing need to continue to purchase lands containing the PCT. Thus it is essential that Congress maintain healthy funding under the LWCF to meet America's goals for open space.

ROADLESS AREAS. Following years of study and public hearings, the Forest Service in early 2001 in the Clinton Administration adopted a policy not to build roads into "roadless areas, that is, tracts eligible for wilderness designation. As adopted, the policy protected over 58 million acres of wildlands, including four million acres in CA's national forests. The PCT crosses many of these roadless areas and thus benefits from this protection to maintain the natural character of the trail.

Unfortunately, despite the massive public support for this policy, the Bush Administration has been seeking to overturn it. In fact, they have been proposing major timber sales and mineral development in roadless areas in Alaska, OR and CA. To learn more, go to www.wilderness.org.

SIERRA NEVADA LOGGING. After extensive study and research the Forest Service adopted in 2001 in the Clinton Administration the "Sierra Framework." A major purpose of the Framework was to restore old-growth forests to the national forests of the region, with many benefits for wildlife, fisheries, recreation and other values.

Not long after Bush was elected, however, the Forest Service decided to revise the Framework and in 2004 issued a new version. This new direction allowed for the cutting of larger trees and quadrupled the amount of timber that could be logged from the national forests of the Sierra Nevada. Fire experts roundly criticized the new plan for increasing the cutting of large trees, not an effective strategy for limiting wildlfires.

Conservation groups have challenged damaging timber sales under the new Framework. See www.sierracampaign.org. For updates also see www.earthjustice.org. The state Attorney General has also sued the Forest Service.

Overview of Pacific Crest Trail

This is a quick tour of the entire route, with occasional detail from some past hikes. Some of the photos come from the Pacific Crest Trail Association (www.pcta.org) ; most are ones I took on various trips on the PCT over the years. Please click on each underlined caption to enjoy the picture with the narrative.

Along with the Appalachian Trail, Congress established the Pacific Crest Trail in 1968 as one of the nation's first National Scenic Trails. (Hiker at Banner Peak) This legislation was authored by Senator Gaylord Nelson, now Counselor to The Wilderness Society (www.wilderness.org) at their headquarters in Washington, D.C.

The PCT was created thanks to the vision of Clinton Clarke, a noted CA conservationist. (Rainbow) In the 1930's he proposed the idea of a "continuous wilderness trail" from Mexico to Canada. He worked with the Boy Scouts and YMCA groups to map the route and founded a group to advocate for the trail. Today the trail is complete across the high country of CA, OR and WA. (Map of PCT)

My walk will start April 24th at the Mexican boundary fifty miles east of San Diego. (Trail Monument at Mexican Border) In the spring hikers pass flowering cactus (Prickly Pear Cactus), gawk at giant yuccas called "Joshua trees" (Joshua Trees) and climb hills with wildflowers (California poppies) The most common plant community on the PCT in Soutern California is chaparral, a brush of shrubs and small trees resistent to drought and prone to wildfire. (Chaparral Brush)

Notable mountain ranges in S. CA include the San Jacintos near Palm Springs, the San Bernardinos near Big Bear Lake and the San Gabriels along the Angeles Crest. With trail elevations up to 9,245 feet, these mountains are blanketed with cool pine forests. (High Elevation Pine Forest) Southern California also features the single biggest elevation gain on the PCT for a northbound hiker -- a 7,500 foot ascent from the desert at I-10 to the forested slopes of San Gorgonio Peak. (View From Whitewater Canyon)

Leaving Southern California hikers enter what John Muir called the Range of Light, with its soaring peaks (Sierra Nevada Peaks) and pristine lakes (Twilight at Rogers Lake) The famous "High Sierra" begins at Cottonwood Pass as hikers cross into Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park. (Siberian Outpost) At Crabtree Meadows a side trail beckons to nearby Mount Whitney, seen here at sunset from the PCT. (Mt. Whitney)

Hikers are soon challenged by a climb to the highest point on the PCT at 13,180' Forester Pass, seen here as the middle notch in the distant wall. (Approach to Forester Pass) The PCT crosses a series of passes above 12,000' before leaving the park beyond Evolution Valley. (Evolution Creek) Hikers continue into the John Muir Wilderness (John Muir Wilderness) on this 200 mile stretch of trail without a road crossing -- the longest roadless segment for any major trail in America.

Next comes the Ansel Adams Wilderness (Wilderness sign) with attractions such as Rainbow Falls (Rainbow Falls) and tall basalt columns (Devils Postpile) at Devils Postpile National Monument. A hiker (Minarets and Ritter Range) passes the scenic Mineret and Ritter Ranges. Here is found a much-photographed gem of the PCT -- Banner Peak reflected in Thousand Island Lake. (Banner Peak - Sunset) and (Banner Peak - Sunrise)

Northward into Yosemite National Park hikers reach Tioga Pass Road (Tioga Pass Road) midway across the park and enter the spacious Tuolumne Meadows. (Tuolumne Meadows) The trail passes Glen Aulin Falls (Glen Aulin Falls), Cold Canyon (Cold Canyon) and Matterhorn Peak. (Matterhorn Peak) Beyond the park the PCT winds many miles through a wild area sought by conservationists for Congressionally-designated wilderness -- an extension of the existing Hoover Wilderness. (Hoover Wilderness Extension)

Further on in the lake Tahoe region hikers enjoy the popular Desolation Wilderness, such as these views of Lake Aloha (Lake Aloha) and from Dick's Pass (View from Dick's Pass)

Across I-80 a hiker (Hiker at Castle Peak) starts a snowshoe trip on the PCT against the backdrop of Castle Peak, another proposed wilderness. Climbing over Castle Peak Pass (Castle Peak Pass) he spends the night at the Sierra Club's Peter Grubb Hut. (Peter Grubb Hut) On the way back he shares a downhill with a happy camper. (Miss Snowshine)

In northern California the PCT traverses Lassen Volcanic National Park, steaming with thermal activity. (Lassen Volcanic NP) Hikers marvel at the roaring Burney Falls. (Burney Falls) Just across I-5 the giant granite formation of Castle Crags leaps into the sky. (Castle Crags Wilderness) Towering above it all is Mount Shasta, seen here from the PCT. (Mount Shasta)

A little-known treasure is the forty-mile section through the Marble Mountain Wilderness, with its diverse and deep evergreen forest and alpine lakes. (Marble Mountain Wilderness) Afterwards a hiker is rewarded with the 5 lb. "pancake challenge" in Seiad Valley -- free if you can eat it all! (Pancake Challenge)

Crossing into Oregon, the PCT rims Crater Lake National Park, the site of an enormous volcanic eruption which created the deepest lake in the U.S. (Crater Lake) Hikers camp in the shadow of Mount Jefferson, one of the most beautiful of the Cascade Mountains. (Mount Jefferson Wilderness)

Finally arriving in WA, hikers glory in the view of Mount Rainier, seen here from the PCT in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. (Goat Rocks Wilderness) The trail crosses North Cascades National Park (North Cascades National Park) and brings hikers to Canada's Manning Provincial Park. (Border Monument)

Welcome

Welcome to the journal for my long-distance hike on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT.) This scenic trail follows the high mountains of California, Oregon and Washington from the Mexican to the Canadian borders. During hiking seasons in 2005 and 2006 I hope to backpack the length of this 2,650 mile path. Through this journal I'd like to share some of the highlights of the adventure with you. Please bookmark this site and follow along!

Following a weekend camp-out with other thru-hikers at a nearby lake, I plan to start the hike at the Mexican border on April 24th. My goal is to maintain a pace of about ten miles a day through the deserts and mountains of Southern California, with stops now and then for rest and resupply at nearby towns and campgrounds.

I expect to take off the month of July -- to allow the high snowpack this year in the Sierra Nevada to melt down and to miss their legendary mosquitoes. I will return to the trail in early August and set sights on reaching the Oregon border sometime in October. During summer of 2006 I would seek to complete the PCT through Oregon and Washington.

I will be taking my cell phone with me and will turn it on when I get to the occasional town.
(There will be some reception in S. CA, very little in the Sierra Nevada near the trail and again some reception in N. CA.) If it is urgent, you can try the cell phone at (510) 295-7740, where you can always leave a message. I will also be checking in with my family so you can also call one of my sisters, Margaret McDowell at (800) 281-2182.