August 13, 2006 to August 30: Bishop to Tuolumne Meadows
The town of Bishop is located in the heart of one of the most spectacular landscapes in CA, rivalling the Big Sur coast in its beauty and grandeur. It's in the midst of the Owens Valley, surrounded on one side by the giant, notched wall of the east side of the Sierra Nevada and on the other side by the massive range of the White Mountains. Bishop served as my gateway to much of my hiking in 2006.
At this point the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is so remote that it required a twelve mile hike over a 12,000 foot pass simply to get to it. Here's the view from the trailhead at South Lake, outside Bishop. (Peter Kirby at South Lake)The trail was busy with a wide range of users: young families with kids; seasoned anglers off to catch trout, and even a group of five women, all plus seventy, leaving for a week in the wilderness with gear and food brought in on horses.
Speaking of wilderness I soon came to the sign for this Congressionally-designated wilderness (Peter Kirby at John Muir Sign) -- national forest land forever protected from roads, logging, mining and other development. (As is my custom, I start these long trips clean-shaven.) Nature greeted me with wildflowers everywhere, especially in moist places along lakes and creeks. (Alpine Flowers) What a dazzling variety: Indian paintbrush, shooting star, columbine, fireweed, avalanche lily, lupine, pussy paws, larkspur and more.
The trail led up past one stunning lake after another until we reached the last lake with tree cover and set up our camp. I was fortunate to be sharing the hike with an experienced and good-natured friend from Carmel Valley, CA -- Bill Salmon. As we put up our tents we chatted with a spirited Sierra Club group returning from a climb of the nearby Mt. Agassiz.
The next morning we hiked steadily up through a world of rocks and got to Bishop Pass, at about 12,000 feet. (Peter Kirby at Bishop Pass) We were now in Kings Canyon National Park, also a Congressionally-designated wilderness. Neither of us, thank goodness, was bothered by the altitude.
Descending into the beautiful Dusy Basin, we saw some government biologists wading intently in shallow ponds. (Scientist With Net) As we approached, they showed us their prize -- a Western yellow-legged frog -- whose populations they were monitoring. (Frog) Sad to say, they reported this type of frog, once common throughout the Sierra Nevada, was rapidly disappearing and was now gone from over 90% of its original range. The biologists were not exactly sure why, fearing that nonnative fish may be eating up the tadpoles. The stresses of climate change and ozone depletion may also be factors as well, they said. (I read later that conservation groups had sued to have this type of frog added to the endangered species list.)
After this grim encounter, we were cheered to meet the "Llama Mama" from Bishop coming our way. Her two creatures stared at us placidly as Mama waited for her friends to catch up. (Peter Kirby, Mama and Llamas) It turns out that the Bishop area has a thriving outfitter business that relies on the backcountry for the services it provides to the public.
The trail dropped steeply down to the Middle Fork of the Kings River, at 8700 feet, where we camped at the junction with the PCT. We began the next day a long, long climb up to 12,000 Muir Pass, facing a stair-step challenge of granite before us. (Granite Divide.) It was tough going -- uphill the whole day -- but we made it almost to the pass and camped out just below Helen Lake. (Muir Pass is flanked by Helen and Wanda Lakes, named after the two daughters of John Muir.)
Deer visited us during supper. (Deer.) And in the morning distant peaks were bathed in the ethereal glow that inspired Muir to call these mountains the "Range of Light." (Early Light.)
After crossing a bunch of wet and tricky snowfields we got to the pass and posed here next to the hut built by the Sierra Club for emergency use. (Bill Salmon and Peter Kirby at Muir Pass.) Nearby, a yellow-bellied marmot chattered and whistled away, hoping to be fed. (Marmot.) The marmot is the largest rodent in North America and eats grasses and flowers (in addition to the occasional trail mix.)
In its descent the PCT followed the shore of icy Wanda Lake. (Wanda Lake.) We then meandered down open Evolution Basin (Evolution Basin), through forested Evolution Valley (Valley Meadow.) and across Evolution Creek (Bill's Ford.) (In early summer hikers have drowned in this raging creek; by late August, it had calmed down.) And guess where we camped? Yes, Evolution Lake. (Evolution Lake.) The surrounding mountains are named in honor of the scientists of that era: Darwin, Mendel, and others.
As we exited Kings Canyon National Park the next day along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, I was in a cheery mood, singing out the Western favorite, "Don't Fence Me In." Bill and I took a short detour to the John Muir Trail Ranch (Horses at Ranch.), where Bill had mailed himself a package of supplies. We rewarded ourselves with a soak in a natural hot springs in a meadow near the ranch (Peter Kirby in Water) -- what bliss!
The next ascent over 10,200 foot Selden Pass took us past Sallie Keyes Lakes (View back from Selden Pass.) At twilight the water boiled with trout jumping at flies. From the top of the pass the next day, the picture-perfect Marie Lake took my breath away. (Marie Lake.)
After a long stretch along sparkling Bear Creek, the PCT crossed a ridge and dropped steeply to a side trail to Lake Thomas Edison. It was luxury to be greeted there by a boat from the friendly Vermilion Valley Resort that ferried us the length of the lake to their fishing camp. What great hosts: a free hiker tent, yummy meals, laundry, a store for my supplies and even cell phone access! Plus, it was fun to use my trail name -- Lorax -- in hanging out with the other hikers.
We feasted on pancakes in the AM and took the ferry back (Bill at VVR Boat), spotting some osprey nests on the way.
Back on the PCT, we ran across this gentle friend smiling at his catch from Mono Creek. (Trout for Dinner.) Rested and fed, we made it over 11,000 foot Silver Pass in a single day. (Peter Kirby at Silver Pass.) It was a challenge sliding down a near-vertical snowfield -- and the first view of the Minerets in the distance made it doubly exciting. (Snow and Minarets.) We camped above timberline at Squaw Lake and enjoyed the sunset. (Mountains at Dusk.)
The next day we climbed steeply above lush meadows (Tully Hole.) and past a lake too blue for words. (Virginia Lake.) We continued past the broken cliffs of Purple Lake. (Purple Lake.) Finally, we passed through a large area burned in 1992 en route to the lodge at famous Reds Meadows. (Burn.)
Bill and I took our first "zero day," (for zero mileage) at Reds Meadow. popular for its quaint store and cafe, mule trains and (for us dusty hikers) its hot showers. Some of the early John Wayne movies were filmed here. Years ago, the archRepublican owner also lobbied against a transSierra highway planned for nearby; the Democratic Congress in 1984 included the proposed route in an expansion of the Ansel Adams Wilderness, stopping the highway for good. Way to go!
Near the lodge is the gorgeous, one hundred foot high Rainbow Falls (Rainbow Falls.) and the extraordinary formation of sixty-foot high straight basalt columns, toppled over by glaciers. (Devil's Postpile National Monument.) At this point, Bill and I took the alternative John Muir Trail rather than the PCT, in order to hike by a string of lakes. This allowed us to see the Minerets up close. (Minarets.) This also took us past Rosalie Lake where the crescent moon rose later over these granite cliffs. (Rosalie Lake.) We paused to watch the divings of a merganser (a duck) and its young in Garnet Lake against the majesty of Mt. Ritter.
Best of all were the incredible reflections of Banner Peak in Thousand Island Lake -- THE icon of the Pacific Crest Trail in CA. Here's sunset (Banner Peak at Sunset.) and sunrise (Banner Peak at Sunrise.) Finally, here's a last look at the Ritter Range as the PCT leaves the Ansel Adams Wilderness. (Ritter Range.)
A final climb to 11,000 foot Donohue Pass brought us into Yosemite National Park. This park is also Congressionally-designated wilderness. We camped below Mt. Lyell, the highest point in the park; the glacier visible below the peak is also the largest in the park. (Mt. Lyell.) The PCT dropped into Lyell Canyon, offering us a wooded and level walk out to the road at Tuolumne Meadows. (Lyell Canyon.)
Here we are -- two happy campers after our 124 mile trek. (Bill Salmon and Peter Kirby at end.) For Bill it was the culmination of a dream -- the completion of the John Muir Trail (PCT) that he had began as a Boy Scout. For me it was simply heaven on earth.
At this point the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is so remote that it required a twelve mile hike over a 12,000 foot pass simply to get to it. Here's the view from the trailhead at South Lake, outside Bishop. (Peter Kirby at South Lake)The trail was busy with a wide range of users: young families with kids; seasoned anglers off to catch trout, and even a group of five women, all plus seventy, leaving for a week in the wilderness with gear and food brought in on horses.
Speaking of wilderness I soon came to the sign for this Congressionally-designated wilderness (Peter Kirby at John Muir Sign) -- national forest land forever protected from roads, logging, mining and other development. (As is my custom, I start these long trips clean-shaven.) Nature greeted me with wildflowers everywhere, especially in moist places along lakes and creeks. (Alpine Flowers) What a dazzling variety: Indian paintbrush, shooting star, columbine, fireweed, avalanche lily, lupine, pussy paws, larkspur and more.
The trail led up past one stunning lake after another until we reached the last lake with tree cover and set up our camp. I was fortunate to be sharing the hike with an experienced and good-natured friend from Carmel Valley, CA -- Bill Salmon. As we put up our tents we chatted with a spirited Sierra Club group returning from a climb of the nearby Mt. Agassiz.
The next morning we hiked steadily up through a world of rocks and got to Bishop Pass, at about 12,000 feet. (Peter Kirby at Bishop Pass) We were now in Kings Canyon National Park, also a Congressionally-designated wilderness. Neither of us, thank goodness, was bothered by the altitude.
Descending into the beautiful Dusy Basin, we saw some government biologists wading intently in shallow ponds. (Scientist With Net) As we approached, they showed us their prize -- a Western yellow-legged frog -- whose populations they were monitoring. (Frog) Sad to say, they reported this type of frog, once common throughout the Sierra Nevada, was rapidly disappearing and was now gone from over 90% of its original range. The biologists were not exactly sure why, fearing that nonnative fish may be eating up the tadpoles. The stresses of climate change and ozone depletion may also be factors as well, they said. (I read later that conservation groups had sued to have this type of frog added to the endangered species list.)
After this grim encounter, we were cheered to meet the "Llama Mama" from Bishop coming our way. Her two creatures stared at us placidly as Mama waited for her friends to catch up. (Peter Kirby, Mama and Llamas) It turns out that the Bishop area has a thriving outfitter business that relies on the backcountry for the services it provides to the public.
The trail dropped steeply down to the Middle Fork of the Kings River, at 8700 feet, where we camped at the junction with the PCT. We began the next day a long, long climb up to 12,000 Muir Pass, facing a stair-step challenge of granite before us. (Granite Divide.) It was tough going -- uphill the whole day -- but we made it almost to the pass and camped out just below Helen Lake. (Muir Pass is flanked by Helen and Wanda Lakes, named after the two daughters of John Muir.)
Deer visited us during supper. (Deer.) And in the morning distant peaks were bathed in the ethereal glow that inspired Muir to call these mountains the "Range of Light." (Early Light.)
After crossing a bunch of wet and tricky snowfields we got to the pass and posed here next to the hut built by the Sierra Club for emergency use. (Bill Salmon and Peter Kirby at Muir Pass.) Nearby, a yellow-bellied marmot chattered and whistled away, hoping to be fed. (Marmot.) The marmot is the largest rodent in North America and eats grasses and flowers (in addition to the occasional trail mix.)
In its descent the PCT followed the shore of icy Wanda Lake. (Wanda Lake.) We then meandered down open Evolution Basin (Evolution Basin), through forested Evolution Valley (Valley Meadow.) and across Evolution Creek (Bill's Ford.) (In early summer hikers have drowned in this raging creek; by late August, it had calmed down.) And guess where we camped? Yes, Evolution Lake. (Evolution Lake.) The surrounding mountains are named in honor of the scientists of that era: Darwin, Mendel, and others.
As we exited Kings Canyon National Park the next day along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, I was in a cheery mood, singing out the Western favorite, "Don't Fence Me In." Bill and I took a short detour to the John Muir Trail Ranch (Horses at Ranch.), where Bill had mailed himself a package of supplies. We rewarded ourselves with a soak in a natural hot springs in a meadow near the ranch (Peter Kirby in Water) -- what bliss!
The next ascent over 10,200 foot Selden Pass took us past Sallie Keyes Lakes (View back from Selden Pass.) At twilight the water boiled with trout jumping at flies. From the top of the pass the next day, the picture-perfect Marie Lake took my breath away. (Marie Lake.)
After a long stretch along sparkling Bear Creek, the PCT crossed a ridge and dropped steeply to a side trail to Lake Thomas Edison. It was luxury to be greeted there by a boat from the friendly Vermilion Valley Resort that ferried us the length of the lake to their fishing camp. What great hosts: a free hiker tent, yummy meals, laundry, a store for my supplies and even cell phone access! Plus, it was fun to use my trail name -- Lorax -- in hanging out with the other hikers.
We feasted on pancakes in the AM and took the ferry back (Bill at VVR Boat), spotting some osprey nests on the way.
Back on the PCT, we ran across this gentle friend smiling at his catch from Mono Creek. (Trout for Dinner.) Rested and fed, we made it over 11,000 foot Silver Pass in a single day. (Peter Kirby at Silver Pass.) It was a challenge sliding down a near-vertical snowfield -- and the first view of the Minerets in the distance made it doubly exciting. (Snow and Minarets.) We camped above timberline at Squaw Lake and enjoyed the sunset. (Mountains at Dusk.)
The next day we climbed steeply above lush meadows (Tully Hole.) and past a lake too blue for words. (Virginia Lake.) We continued past the broken cliffs of Purple Lake. (Purple Lake.) Finally, we passed through a large area burned in 1992 en route to the lodge at famous Reds Meadows. (Burn.)
Bill and I took our first "zero day," (for zero mileage) at Reds Meadow. popular for its quaint store and cafe, mule trains and (for us dusty hikers) its hot showers. Some of the early John Wayne movies were filmed here. Years ago, the archRepublican owner also lobbied against a transSierra highway planned for nearby; the Democratic Congress in 1984 included the proposed route in an expansion of the Ansel Adams Wilderness, stopping the highway for good. Way to go!
Near the lodge is the gorgeous, one hundred foot high Rainbow Falls (Rainbow Falls.) and the extraordinary formation of sixty-foot high straight basalt columns, toppled over by glaciers. (Devil's Postpile National Monument.) At this point, Bill and I took the alternative John Muir Trail rather than the PCT, in order to hike by a string of lakes. This allowed us to see the Minerets up close. (Minarets.) This also took us past Rosalie Lake where the crescent moon rose later over these granite cliffs. (Rosalie Lake.) We paused to watch the divings of a merganser (a duck) and its young in Garnet Lake against the majesty of Mt. Ritter.
Best of all were the incredible reflections of Banner Peak in Thousand Island Lake -- THE icon of the Pacific Crest Trail in CA. Here's sunset (Banner Peak at Sunset.) and sunrise (Banner Peak at Sunrise.) Finally, here's a last look at the Ritter Range as the PCT leaves the Ansel Adams Wilderness. (Ritter Range.)
A final climb to 11,000 foot Donohue Pass brought us into Yosemite National Park. This park is also Congressionally-designated wilderness. We camped below Mt. Lyell, the highest point in the park; the glacier visible below the peak is also the largest in the park. (Mt. Lyell.) The PCT dropped into Lyell Canyon, offering us a wooded and level walk out to the road at Tuolumne Meadows. (Lyell Canyon.)
Here we are -- two happy campers after our 124 mile trek. (Bill Salmon and Peter Kirby at end.) For Bill it was the culmination of a dream -- the completion of the John Muir Trail (PCT) that he had began as a Boy Scout. For me it was simply heaven on earth.
posted by peterkirby at
3:41 PM
