Sept. 22, 2006 to Sept. 30: South Lake Tahoe to Truckee
These sixty-two miles of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) took me across the scenic and popular Desolation and Granite Chief Wildernesses, west of CA's Lake Tahoe. I began the backpack at Highway 50, close to the busy resort of South Lake Tahoe, and ended at Highway 40, near the charming mountain town of Truckee. As with last year's final outing, I hiked with an eye to the sky, as snow can come early to the Sierras.
The gateway to the Desolation Wilderness is this lovely pair of lakes. (Upper and Lower Echo Lake.) I was reminded it was autumn when I woke up at my first camp at the lake to a frozen camera; it was midmorning before it warmed up and the shutter would click.
I was in upbeat spirits as I entered the Desolation Wilderness. (Peter Kirby at Desolation Sign.) Two days earlier a federal judge had ordered the Bush Administration to restore a Clinton-era rule that national forest roadless areas (areas eligible for wilderness but not yet designated) be protected from new road construction. In CA alone this would preserve about 4.5 million acres of national forest wildlands, including the Meiss Meadows roadless area that I went through on my final PCT hike in 2005.
The PCT ascended past Lake Margery (Lake Margery) and opened up at spacious Lake Aloha (Peter Kirby in front of Crystal Range.) Due to extensive scouring by glaciers, this valley looks quite desolate -- hence the name of the wilderness. I camped that night on the shores of Susie Lake and enjoyed this still reflection of Jacks Peak in the morning. (Susie Lake.) As the trail gained elevation I was treated to this view backward of the distant Crystal Range and Susie Lake in the foreground. (Lake, Ridge and Range.)
Here's Dicks Peak en route to the pass of the same name (Dicks Peak) and the view from the crossing at 9,380 feet. (Peter Kirby at Dicks Pass.) This is the last time the PCT reaches above 9,000 feet all the way to Canada! Down the other side is Dicks Lake, with open granite fields all the way back to the peak. (Dicks Lake.) During the forested exit from Desolation Wilderness I often noticed the "snow line" drawn by the vivid green "wolf" lichen on tall trees. (Wolf Lichen on Red Fir.)
Here's a field of dried-out "mules' ears" that had yellow flowers and fuzzy, grey leaves only a month prior. (Dried Mules' Ears.) Beyond Desolation Wilderness is the only road that crosses the PCT on this section. (Barker Pass.) My campsite at the headwaters of Blackwood Creek offered this enchanting view of Lake Tahoe. (Lake Tahoe.) At over 6,200 feet above sea level it is one of the highest-elevation large lakes in the world. Plus, it is the second deepest lake in the U.S., after Crater Lake. It was always thrilling to see this pristine lake pop into view through the ridges.
Soon the PCT entered Granite Chief Wilderness (Sign) and began a stretch right on top of the divide between the watersheds for Lake Tahoe to the west and the American River to the east. For miles it was literally a trail on the "crest." (Crest Trail.) Jutting up dramatically along the crest were these massive twin columns of basalt, a type of cooled lava, evidence of a past volcano. (Postpile.) This clear trickle of water -- narrow enough to step over -- is actually the headwaters of the mighty Middle Fork of the American River, which later joins with its North and South Forks and flows close to my home in Sacramento. (Origin of River.)
Beyond Granite Chief Wilderness was this intrusive crossing under this ski tower from Squaw Valley Resort. (Ski Tower.) The PCT once again climbed to the ridgecrest. (View towards Tinker Knob.) This allowed for a windswept vista far north towards Castle Peak, a favorite snowshoe destination of mine. (Windswept Vista.) To the west loomed the deep canyon cut by the North Fork of the American River. (Royal Gorge.) The PCT also went past more lava flows. (Lava Flow.)
As the trail began to drop towards the next highway I set up my last camp and savored my final PCT sunset of the year. (Anderson Peak.) The next day I hiked down to Route 40, the crossing of Donner Pass -- the attempted route of the ill-fated 1846 Donner party. I caught a ride to Truckee and had my fill of pasta (Pacific Crest Restaurant) to celebrate the completion of a spectacular hiking season.
The gateway to the Desolation Wilderness is this lovely pair of lakes. (Upper and Lower Echo Lake.) I was reminded it was autumn when I woke up at my first camp at the lake to a frozen camera; it was midmorning before it warmed up and the shutter would click.
I was in upbeat spirits as I entered the Desolation Wilderness. (Peter Kirby at Desolation Sign.) Two days earlier a federal judge had ordered the Bush Administration to restore a Clinton-era rule that national forest roadless areas (areas eligible for wilderness but not yet designated) be protected from new road construction. In CA alone this would preserve about 4.5 million acres of national forest wildlands, including the Meiss Meadows roadless area that I went through on my final PCT hike in 2005.
The PCT ascended past Lake Margery (Lake Margery) and opened up at spacious Lake Aloha (Peter Kirby in front of Crystal Range.) Due to extensive scouring by glaciers, this valley looks quite desolate -- hence the name of the wilderness. I camped that night on the shores of Susie Lake and enjoyed this still reflection of Jacks Peak in the morning. (Susie Lake.) As the trail gained elevation I was treated to this view backward of the distant Crystal Range and Susie Lake in the foreground. (Lake, Ridge and Range.)
Here's Dicks Peak en route to the pass of the same name (Dicks Peak) and the view from the crossing at 9,380 feet. (Peter Kirby at Dicks Pass.) This is the last time the PCT reaches above 9,000 feet all the way to Canada! Down the other side is Dicks Lake, with open granite fields all the way back to the peak. (Dicks Lake.) During the forested exit from Desolation Wilderness I often noticed the "snow line" drawn by the vivid green "wolf" lichen on tall trees. (Wolf Lichen on Red Fir.)
Here's a field of dried-out "mules' ears" that had yellow flowers and fuzzy, grey leaves only a month prior. (Dried Mules' Ears.) Beyond Desolation Wilderness is the only road that crosses the PCT on this section. (Barker Pass.) My campsite at the headwaters of Blackwood Creek offered this enchanting view of Lake Tahoe. (Lake Tahoe.) At over 6,200 feet above sea level it is one of the highest-elevation large lakes in the world. Plus, it is the second deepest lake in the U.S., after Crater Lake. It was always thrilling to see this pristine lake pop into view through the ridges.
Soon the PCT entered Granite Chief Wilderness (Sign) and began a stretch right on top of the divide between the watersheds for Lake Tahoe to the west and the American River to the east. For miles it was literally a trail on the "crest." (Crest Trail.) Jutting up dramatically along the crest were these massive twin columns of basalt, a type of cooled lava, evidence of a past volcano. (Postpile.) This clear trickle of water -- narrow enough to step over -- is actually the headwaters of the mighty Middle Fork of the American River, which later joins with its North and South Forks and flows close to my home in Sacramento. (Origin of River.)
Beyond Granite Chief Wilderness was this intrusive crossing under this ski tower from Squaw Valley Resort. (Ski Tower.) The PCT once again climbed to the ridgecrest. (View towards Tinker Knob.) This allowed for a windswept vista far north towards Castle Peak, a favorite snowshoe destination of mine. (Windswept Vista.) To the west loomed the deep canyon cut by the North Fork of the American River. (Royal Gorge.) The PCT also went past more lava flows. (Lava Flow.)
As the trail began to drop towards the next highway I set up my last camp and savored my final PCT sunset of the year. (Anderson Peak.) The next day I hiked down to Route 40, the crossing of Donner Pass -- the attempted route of the ill-fated 1846 Donner party. I caught a ride to Truckee and had my fill of pasta (Pacific Crest Restaurant) to celebrate the completion of a spectacular hiking season.
posted by peterkirby at
11:28 AM
