June 3, 2007 to June 14: Big Bear Lake to I-15
On this 90 mile section of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) I hiked across the San Bernardino Mountains, a giant wall of peaks around the basin of Los Angeles. 2007 had been the driest year in the last 130 years of recorded history in the LA area. By the time I began the hike only three inches of rain had fallen in 2007; parts of the mountain range were bone-dry. Little did I know that months later massive fires would sweep over forests I had just hiked. Meanwhile, it was a challenge getting enough water on the trip but, thanks to the wonderful generosity of "trail angels" who put out water caches, I never ran out of water and, in fact, thoroughly enjoyed the backpack.
With a stop at the alpine town of Wrightwood to pose with their mascot (Peter and Bear), the drive down through the San Bernardino's followed the "Rim of the World" scenic byway, where even the signs are eye-catching (Road Logo.) I was dropped off along the byway at Onyx Summit (Peter and Sign) close to where I had finished my opening hike back in June, 2005. Here I am next to a Jeffrey pine, ready to go (Peter on PCT.)
Moments into the walk a vista opened up to the southwest of San Gorgonio Mountain behind two ridges -- at 11,500 feet the highest peak in Southern California! (Mountain Vista.) The PCT swung around completely dry Baldwin Lake, with the playa, a term for a waterless lakebed, a ghostly white. (Playa.) The granite peaks of the nearby Bighorn Mountains Wilderness sparkled in the bright sun. (Along with other wildernesses around LA, this serves as a refuge for the rare bighorn sheep.)
As the PCT turned west towards Big Bear Lake, it came near the Mojave Desert at the edge of the forest (View of the Desert), with the breath of the Mojave like a blast furnace. Even at a distance the desert heated up the forest enough for the pines to give way to beavertail cactus (Cactus in Flower) and Joshua Trees, a kind of yucca actually. (Joshua Trees.) Fierce winds kicked up too and I spent a night huddled in my tent in Van Dusen Canyon as tree branches crashed down around me. (A hiker later told me that winds that night reached over 60 mph in nearby Big Bear Lake.)
The next day though was calm and cool for the beautiful walk above Big Bear Lake, with wisps of clouds over the hills. (Big Bear Lake.) I sat on an outcrop of white marble and gazed again at the distant, high peaks of the San Gorgonio Wilderness (Wilderness beyond Lake) and recalled its history. Citizens rallied years ago to block a ski development planned by the Forest Service for the fragile, alpine terrain of San Gorgonio Mountain and preserved the high country as wilderness. As you can see in the midground of the last photo, the Forest Service then built a ski resort in a less fragile and more accessible setting -- a good compromise in my view.
This area was also swept up in the gold rush of 1849 and saw extensive mining. Many shafts were blasted to seek the "Mother Lode," the source of the loose or "placer" gold. The tailings from these shafts still dot the hills -- and foul its waters. A number of these scars are visible from the PCT. (Mining Tailings.)
While I was eating lunch along the trail, a colorful hiker zoomed up, said hello and posed for a photo. (Catra.) Note the patterned gaiters that match her body art and hair! A regular in the 100 mile Western States footrace, Catra set a number of women's speed records on the PCT, including a completion of the rugged 212 mile John Muir Trail in only five days. Her lively blog is at http://trailgirl.blogspot.com/. And off she zoomed ...
In an omen of the fires to come, the PCT went past miles of bare tree trunks charred by the extensive Willow Fire from 1999. (Burned Forest.) Every so often an area skipped by the fire would showcase green trees and a flowering yucca, aptly called "Lord's Candle." (Unburned Forest.)
Every hiker on this section looks forward to Deep Creek, a chilled trout stream shielded by high cliffs. (Bridge across Deep Creek.) It is so prized that our two senators -- Boxer and Feinstein -- have introduced a bill to protect it as a Wild and Scenic River. Further downstream the PCT descended from the cliffs and took me to this heavenly swimming hole. (Deep Creek I) Here there are also four pools of hot springs, each with a different temperature, and even a cascading warm shower. A friendly dog followed me as I sampled each pool. (Peter in Hot Springs.) I also chatted with a few local folks who "adopted" the hot springs and picked up litter and policed the area. Later in the day I crossed Deep Creek on another graceful span (Bridge II), camped on a pristine beach below some rapids (Deep Creek II) and fell asleep to the soft hooting of owls.
At the last crossing of Deep Creek, it became a wetland as it emptied into the Mojave Desert. (Marsh.) While filtering some water I was buzzed by really large copper dragonflies and recognized the squeeky-door song of red-winged blackbirds. After a long, waterless stretch that followed, I thanked the stars for the trail angels who put out water caches, especially one kind soul who also left a cooler with fresh apples, peaches and bananas!
The PCT crossed below a giant dam and ascended to its reservoir -- Silverwood Lake, ringed by mountains. (Silverwood Lake.) A windy beach beckoned me for another swim. (Driftwood on Beach.) Past the lake another long waterless climb took me up scenic Horsethief Canyon to camp at an overlook above rugged and massive Cajon Canyon -- with views beyond to the San Gabriel Mountains. (Cajon Canyon.) At the bottom was I-15, with its stores and motels.
Oddly, as rest was in sight, I began to feel the early signs of heat exhaustion -- cool, clammy skin; unsteady steps, lightheadedness and loss of appetite. As I noticed these signs, I stopped walking, paused and felt the sensation of a dog licking my hand; I had a quick vision of a friend's dog -- Sandy, by name -- by my side. Sandy, I was sure, would lead me safely down the chasm in the boiling heat! I was heartened by the vision, sat down, ate some trail mix, drank a quart of water and centered myself. I managed fine and even found a running creek along the willows at the bottom. (Crowder Canyon.) Thus, I got to I-15 alert and alive -- and very ready for a day off.
With a stop at the alpine town of Wrightwood to pose with their mascot (Peter and Bear), the drive down through the San Bernardino's followed the "Rim of the World" scenic byway, where even the signs are eye-catching (Road Logo.) I was dropped off along the byway at Onyx Summit (Peter and Sign) close to where I had finished my opening hike back in June, 2005. Here I am next to a Jeffrey pine, ready to go (Peter on PCT.)
Moments into the walk a vista opened up to the southwest of San Gorgonio Mountain behind two ridges -- at 11,500 feet the highest peak in Southern California! (Mountain Vista.) The PCT swung around completely dry Baldwin Lake, with the playa, a term for a waterless lakebed, a ghostly white. (Playa.) The granite peaks of the nearby Bighorn Mountains Wilderness sparkled in the bright sun. (Along with other wildernesses around LA, this serves as a refuge for the rare bighorn sheep.)
As the PCT turned west towards Big Bear Lake, it came near the Mojave Desert at the edge of the forest (View of the Desert), with the breath of the Mojave like a blast furnace. Even at a distance the desert heated up the forest enough for the pines to give way to beavertail cactus (Cactus in Flower) and Joshua Trees, a kind of yucca actually. (Joshua Trees.) Fierce winds kicked up too and I spent a night huddled in my tent in Van Dusen Canyon as tree branches crashed down around me. (A hiker later told me that winds that night reached over 60 mph in nearby Big Bear Lake.)
The next day though was calm and cool for the beautiful walk above Big Bear Lake, with wisps of clouds over the hills. (Big Bear Lake.) I sat on an outcrop of white marble and gazed again at the distant, high peaks of the San Gorgonio Wilderness (Wilderness beyond Lake) and recalled its history. Citizens rallied years ago to block a ski development planned by the Forest Service for the fragile, alpine terrain of San Gorgonio Mountain and preserved the high country as wilderness. As you can see in the midground of the last photo, the Forest Service then built a ski resort in a less fragile and more accessible setting -- a good compromise in my view.
This area was also swept up in the gold rush of 1849 and saw extensive mining. Many shafts were blasted to seek the "Mother Lode," the source of the loose or "placer" gold. The tailings from these shafts still dot the hills -- and foul its waters. A number of these scars are visible from the PCT. (Mining Tailings.)
While I was eating lunch along the trail, a colorful hiker zoomed up, said hello and posed for a photo. (Catra.) Note the patterned gaiters that match her body art and hair! A regular in the 100 mile Western States footrace, Catra set a number of women's speed records on the PCT, including a completion of the rugged 212 mile John Muir Trail in only five days. Her lively blog is at http://trailgirl.blogspot.com/. And off she zoomed ...
In an omen of the fires to come, the PCT went past miles of bare tree trunks charred by the extensive Willow Fire from 1999. (Burned Forest.) Every so often an area skipped by the fire would showcase green trees and a flowering yucca, aptly called "Lord's Candle." (Unburned Forest.)
Every hiker on this section looks forward to Deep Creek, a chilled trout stream shielded by high cliffs. (Bridge across Deep Creek.) It is so prized that our two senators -- Boxer and Feinstein -- have introduced a bill to protect it as a Wild and Scenic River. Further downstream the PCT descended from the cliffs and took me to this heavenly swimming hole. (Deep Creek I) Here there are also four pools of hot springs, each with a different temperature, and even a cascading warm shower. A friendly dog followed me as I sampled each pool. (Peter in Hot Springs.) I also chatted with a few local folks who "adopted" the hot springs and picked up litter and policed the area. Later in the day I crossed Deep Creek on another graceful span (Bridge II), camped on a pristine beach below some rapids (Deep Creek II) and fell asleep to the soft hooting of owls.
At the last crossing of Deep Creek, it became a wetland as it emptied into the Mojave Desert. (Marsh.) While filtering some water I was buzzed by really large copper dragonflies and recognized the squeeky-door song of red-winged blackbirds. After a long, waterless stretch that followed, I thanked the stars for the trail angels who put out water caches, especially one kind soul who also left a cooler with fresh apples, peaches and bananas!
The PCT crossed below a giant dam and ascended to its reservoir -- Silverwood Lake, ringed by mountains. (Silverwood Lake.) A windy beach beckoned me for another swim. (Driftwood on Beach.) Past the lake another long waterless climb took me up scenic Horsethief Canyon to camp at an overlook above rugged and massive Cajon Canyon -- with views beyond to the San Gabriel Mountains. (Cajon Canyon.) At the bottom was I-15, with its stores and motels.
Oddly, as rest was in sight, I began to feel the early signs of heat exhaustion -- cool, clammy skin; unsteady steps, lightheadedness and loss of appetite. As I noticed these signs, I stopped walking, paused and felt the sensation of a dog licking my hand; I had a quick vision of a friend's dog -- Sandy, by name -- by my side. Sandy, I was sure, would lead me safely down the chasm in the boiling heat! I was heartened by the vision, sat down, ate some trail mix, drank a quart of water and centered myself. I managed fine and even found a running creek along the willows at the bottom. (Crowder Canyon.) Thus, I got to I-15 alert and alive -- and very ready for a day off.
posted by peterkirby at
4:35 PM
