September 21, 2010 to Sept. 26th: Truckee to Sierra City
In this 42 mile hike I headed north on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from a trail head close to Interstate 80 near the ski town of Truckee. Nearby ski resorts include Squaw Valley and Sugar Bowl, both skirted by the PCT. At this point the PCT is leaving the Lake Tahoe area for the northern Sierra Nevada, with mountains covered by ancient lava flows and carved by erosion and glaciers.
The hike started at a well-travelled route across Donner Pass over the mighty Sierra Nevada. As the PCT went past Donner Pass I could see the railroad track tunnelled through rock cliffs, a famous feat accomplished by Chinese labor. (Railroad Tunnels and Sheds) Here's a vista of Donner Lake from the PCT. (Donner Lake) At the far end is where the ill-fated Donner party was trapped by deep snows in the winter of 1846 and lost dozens of emigrants. Nearby Truckee gets the coldest winters in CA. Hence, I did this late-season hike with one eye on the sky in case of snow.
The PCT went under I-80 and soon entered a wild area featuring majestic Castle Peak. (Castle Peak 1) Truck noise faded quickly in the dense forest and I set up my tent next to giant fir trees. This wild tract in the Tahoe National Forest is considered a "roadless area" by the Forest Service, meaning that it is natural and unroaded enough to qualify as "wilderness" but has not yet been so designated by Congress. Thus, this 16,000 acre roadless area could some day be the "Castle Peak Wilderness." This area would make a superb wilderness, with its scenic beauty and exceptional backcountry recreation.
Back in 2001 the Forest Service under Clinton adopted a rule not to build roads or log in the 58.5 million acres of national forest roadless area nationwide. In CA there are over four million acres of roadless areas on its national forests, almost as much land as all the national forest designated wilderness. Obama has largely continued this policy of preserving potential national forest wilderness. The PCT benefits by maintaining its wildness in special places like Castle Peak.
The next day I climbed up to Castle Pass at about 8,000' (Sign at Pass) at the head of Castle Valley with more stunning views (Castle Peak 2) Far to the south was the mountain skyline of the Granite Chief Wilderness (Granite Chief Wilderness) I felt right at home too as I have snowshoe hiked to Castle Pass many times over the years. The area is also very popular for cross-country skiing.
On the other side of the pass the PCT leads to one of the few overnight structures along its entire length -- the rough and rustic Peter Grubb Hut. (Peter Grubb Hut) I stayed here one winter night in 2004. The snow was so deep visitors entered through the door on the second floor!
For much of this section the PCT travelled along high, exposed ridges with views of meadows and peaks in the distance. (Meadows and Peaks) Many of the springs and brooks had gone dry by fall so it was always a challenge to find water. Thus, it was a luxury to camp next to this creek (White Rock Creek) on night two on a bed of soft pine needles. Night three was a delight also, on top of an open ridge with vistas of lakes in all directions: Webber Lake (Webber Lake) and Fordyce Lake (Fordyce Lake) From my perch I also heard gunshots the next AM. I was puzzled as deer hunting season did not start for a few days but put on my orange vest to be safe. I learned later these were hunters doing target practice, or "plinking" as they call it.
At last came the first view of Sierra Buttes, a multi-pointed peak above Sierra City (Sierra Buttes 1); it was to be my beacon for the rest of the hike. Along the ridges also were large fields of dried-up "mule's ears," a plant with large gray leaves, like the shape and size of mule's ears, and showy yellow blooms, like sunflowers. By late fall, the blooms were gone and the leaves were brown; the plants rustled in the wind and, oddly, gave off a smell like lit cigars. (Mule's Ears and Mountains) The PCT also wound past colorful volcanic rock formations, rough to the touch. (Rough Rocks)
At a dry creek I came across a group of hunters, who kindly gave me a couple of quarts of water. We discussed their complaint that sightings were way down this year -- for deer, for turkey and for black bear. I had just read an article in the Sacramento paper that poaching is sharply up due to the recession. They agreed and reported that non-local folks came and hunted the woods year-round, regardless of the limits on seasons.
To make matters worse, CA has only about 240 game wardens in the field -- for a state of a hundred million acres and forty million people. That's the lowest ratio of game wardens to population of any U.S. state. It's no wonder that experts say that for every twenty active poachers each year only one will get caught. What a sorry record for CA on these environmental crimes!
I was cheered up with another view of beautiful Sierra Buttes across Jackson Meadow Reservoir. (Sierra Buttes 2) I had lunch in a stand of Sugar Pine, the tallest pine species in the world. Their cones grow more than a foot long; notice how they dwarf my gloves -- and I have big hands. (Very Long Sugar Pine Cones)
The PCT began a stairstep descent towards Highway 49, dropping down many tricky switchbacks of loose slate to Milton Creek. (Milton Creek) The PCT paralleled Milton Creek for a spell -- very welcome after all the dry ridges in this section. It was heaven on earth that night camping out at the roaring confluence of Milton and Haypress Creeks near a sturdy bridge. (Bridge)
There were two final treats before the highway. Just past a gorge of Haypress Creek unfolded this stunning view: (Sierra Buttes 3) There's a side trail off the PCT up metal stairs to a fire tower on the peak of Sierra Buttes. That's a good reason to come back. And just before the highway the PCT crossed on a bridge over the narrow, rocky cleft of the North Fork of the Yuba River. (Yuba Canyon) I climbed down to the river and soaked my feet in a calm pool below a falls. Exiting at Highway 49, I was charmed by quaint Sierra City, a short distance down the road.
Back in my car I visited the larger town of Quincy further north, for the purpose of seeing its library -- an odd purpose you might think. (Quincy Library) However, about a decade ago this library was the location for a series of meetings with the timber industry and local interests that resulted in agreement on a plan for logging these national forests. The plan by the so-called "Quincy Library Group" was eventually enacted into law by Congress, over the criticism of national conservation groups like The Wilderness Society. It turned out that the plan was never fully carried out because the logging goals and the impacts on the environment were excessive.
After the stop at Quincy I took a side trip to a beautiful area right next to the PCT called "Lakes Basin." I did a loop trail one day that passed nine (!) sparkling lakes, such as this alpine gem (Silver Lake) with 8,000' Mt. Elwell as backdrop. As I studied the maps I wondered if the PCT could be routed past one or two of these lakes. When I got home I contacted Mike Dawson of the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) with my question and was pleased to learn that the PCTA is in fact proposing a relocation of the trail past a couple of these lakes and has the support of the Forest Service. Good news to end the hiking season!
The hike started at a well-travelled route across Donner Pass over the mighty Sierra Nevada. As the PCT went past Donner Pass I could see the railroad track tunnelled through rock cliffs, a famous feat accomplished by Chinese labor. (Railroad Tunnels and Sheds) Here's a vista of Donner Lake from the PCT. (Donner Lake) At the far end is where the ill-fated Donner party was trapped by deep snows in the winter of 1846 and lost dozens of emigrants. Nearby Truckee gets the coldest winters in CA. Hence, I did this late-season hike with one eye on the sky in case of snow.
The PCT went under I-80 and soon entered a wild area featuring majestic Castle Peak. (Castle Peak 1) Truck noise faded quickly in the dense forest and I set up my tent next to giant fir trees. This wild tract in the Tahoe National Forest is considered a "roadless area" by the Forest Service, meaning that it is natural and unroaded enough to qualify as "wilderness" but has not yet been so designated by Congress. Thus, this 16,000 acre roadless area could some day be the "Castle Peak Wilderness." This area would make a superb wilderness, with its scenic beauty and exceptional backcountry recreation.
Back in 2001 the Forest Service under Clinton adopted a rule not to build roads or log in the 58.5 million acres of national forest roadless area nationwide. In CA there are over four million acres of roadless areas on its national forests, almost as much land as all the national forest designated wilderness. Obama has largely continued this policy of preserving potential national forest wilderness. The PCT benefits by maintaining its wildness in special places like Castle Peak.
The next day I climbed up to Castle Pass at about 8,000' (Sign at Pass) at the head of Castle Valley with more stunning views (Castle Peak 2) Far to the south was the mountain skyline of the Granite Chief Wilderness (Granite Chief Wilderness) I felt right at home too as I have snowshoe hiked to Castle Pass many times over the years. The area is also very popular for cross-country skiing.
On the other side of the pass the PCT leads to one of the few overnight structures along its entire length -- the rough and rustic Peter Grubb Hut. (Peter Grubb Hut) I stayed here one winter night in 2004. The snow was so deep visitors entered through the door on the second floor!
For much of this section the PCT travelled along high, exposed ridges with views of meadows and peaks in the distance. (Meadows and Peaks) Many of the springs and brooks had gone dry by fall so it was always a challenge to find water. Thus, it was a luxury to camp next to this creek (White Rock Creek) on night two on a bed of soft pine needles. Night three was a delight also, on top of an open ridge with vistas of lakes in all directions: Webber Lake (Webber Lake) and Fordyce Lake (Fordyce Lake) From my perch I also heard gunshots the next AM. I was puzzled as deer hunting season did not start for a few days but put on my orange vest to be safe. I learned later these were hunters doing target practice, or "plinking" as they call it.
At last came the first view of Sierra Buttes, a multi-pointed peak above Sierra City (Sierra Buttes 1); it was to be my beacon for the rest of the hike. Along the ridges also were large fields of dried-up "mule's ears," a plant with large gray leaves, like the shape and size of mule's ears, and showy yellow blooms, like sunflowers. By late fall, the blooms were gone and the leaves were brown; the plants rustled in the wind and, oddly, gave off a smell like lit cigars. (Mule's Ears and Mountains) The PCT also wound past colorful volcanic rock formations, rough to the touch. (Rough Rocks)
At a dry creek I came across a group of hunters, who kindly gave me a couple of quarts of water. We discussed their complaint that sightings were way down this year -- for deer, for turkey and for black bear. I had just read an article in the Sacramento paper that poaching is sharply up due to the recession. They agreed and reported that non-local folks came and hunted the woods year-round, regardless of the limits on seasons.
To make matters worse, CA has only about 240 game wardens in the field -- for a state of a hundred million acres and forty million people. That's the lowest ratio of game wardens to population of any U.S. state. It's no wonder that experts say that for every twenty active poachers each year only one will get caught. What a sorry record for CA on these environmental crimes!
I was cheered up with another view of beautiful Sierra Buttes across Jackson Meadow Reservoir. (Sierra Buttes 2) I had lunch in a stand of Sugar Pine, the tallest pine species in the world. Their cones grow more than a foot long; notice how they dwarf my gloves -- and I have big hands. (Very Long Sugar Pine Cones)
The PCT began a stairstep descent towards Highway 49, dropping down many tricky switchbacks of loose slate to Milton Creek. (Milton Creek) The PCT paralleled Milton Creek for a spell -- very welcome after all the dry ridges in this section. It was heaven on earth that night camping out at the roaring confluence of Milton and Haypress Creeks near a sturdy bridge. (Bridge)
There were two final treats before the highway. Just past a gorge of Haypress Creek unfolded this stunning view: (Sierra Buttes 3) There's a side trail off the PCT up metal stairs to a fire tower on the peak of Sierra Buttes. That's a good reason to come back. And just before the highway the PCT crossed on a bridge over the narrow, rocky cleft of the North Fork of the Yuba River. (Yuba Canyon) I climbed down to the river and soaked my feet in a calm pool below a falls. Exiting at Highway 49, I was charmed by quaint Sierra City, a short distance down the road.
Back in my car I visited the larger town of Quincy further north, for the purpose of seeing its library -- an odd purpose you might think. (Quincy Library) However, about a decade ago this library was the location for a series of meetings with the timber industry and local interests that resulted in agreement on a plan for logging these national forests. The plan by the so-called "Quincy Library Group" was eventually enacted into law by Congress, over the criticism of national conservation groups like The Wilderness Society. It turned out that the plan was never fully carried out because the logging goals and the impacts on the environment were excessive.
After the stop at Quincy I took a side trip to a beautiful area right next to the PCT called "Lakes Basin." I did a loop trail one day that passed nine (!) sparkling lakes, such as this alpine gem (Silver Lake) with 8,000' Mt. Elwell as backdrop. As I studied the maps I wondered if the PCT could be routed past one or two of these lakes. When I got home I contacted Mike Dawson of the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) with my question and was pleased to learn that the PCTA is in fact proposing a relocation of the trail past a couple of these lakes and has the support of the Forest Service. Good news to end the hiking season!
posted by peterkirby at
8:32 PM
